I have to admit, after moron-friendly admin panels such as that of phpNuke, bBlog or even phpBB, I was quite surprised to find such a... Congealed? I can't think of the word I want. Try mixing congealed, complex, long-winded and viscous. That sort of explains what I'm thinking.
The admin for ZenCart does leave a little to be desired, but it's functional and so far I'm happy with it. (Though, I'm having trouble with colour, size, and such, as I need to be able to offer lots of options and haven't really figured out how...)
(If my comments make no sense, forgive me, it's eight in the morning, I haven't been to bed yet, and I didn't read anything past the first page. )
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